Las Vegas (without a casino in sight)
Valley of Fire State Park, the oldest in Nevada (Photo: Kristin Scharkey)
Recently on a day off in Las Vegas, this road trip was born. At breakfast in the casino of our hotel, the guitar player let me know how much he disliked Las Vegas and how there wasn’t anything to do besides the usual gambling, drinking, eating, etc. It made me think about all the cool things I had heard about from friends and locals over my lifetime of visiting. So, little by little I started making my points to him. As soon as the tour was over, I jumped in my truck and drove back for a few days to see them all and discover a few things on my own.
My goal was to find things to do within an hour of town (give or take a few minutes, of course). Being the Old West, I figured there had to be some ghost towns around. So, I headed south on Route 95 toward the town of Searchlight, a good spot to fuel up. On the way, a turn-off for State Route 165 leads to a road that twists and turns into Eldorado Canyon, the site of Techatticup Mine. I had no idea this place was here, and it looks like a movie set: Both sides of the road are filled with miners’ shacks and buildings. It’s a classic ghost town that is home to one of the oldest gold mines in southern Nevada, in operation from 1861 to 1942. The owners have been slowly restoring the buildings, and you’re free to roam around the town. Check in at the general store, where the walls are covered floor to ceiling with pictures and artifacts, and you can purchase books and gifts. Mine tours are available by reservation, and take you about a quarter-mile into the hard rock mine shafts. You can also rent kayaks and canoes, and spend the day at the Colorado River, about 5 miles down the road. What’s pretty cool is that it’s less than an hour from the Strip.
Red Rocks Canyon National Conservation Area (Photo: Kristin Scharkey)
To the east of Vegas, Hoover Dam is an impressive sight, and Lake Mead behind it is one of my favorite lakes on the Colorado River for boating, fishing and the like. These are major attractions and deservedly so but, as you know, I’m an off-the-beaten path kind of guy, so these receive an honorable mention.
To the north of the city is Valley of Fire State Park, the oldest in Nevada. I had never been here before and am looking to go back ASAP, as I would like to spend a whole day exploring. This place has everything you would expect to see in the Southwest: red sandstone mountains and arches carved out over millions of years, petroglyphs, wildlife and the best sunset pics you can get with the red valley lights “on fire.” There is no shortage of hiking or camping in the park, but just driving through will blow your mind. (There is a $10 entrance fee per car, or $8 for Nevada residents.) The park road ends at Lake Mead and from here, you can go back through the park or make a left and head north to the town of Overton to see the Lost City Museum. It was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps for the National Park Service in 1935, as archaeologists rushed to recover as much information and artifacts from several ancient ancestral Puebloan (formerly known Anasazi) sites that would be covered by the lake after the completion of Hoover Dam.
Snow skiing outside of Las Vegas is a real thing. And heading northwest about 40 minutes away into the mountains to Mount Charleston and Lee Canyon – at an elevation of more than 7,700 feet – is a great place to visit in winter for snow play. As you head up the mountain on Route 157 from Route 95, there is a nice little hotel on the left, The Resort on Mount Charleston, that has 62 rooms, a restaurant, bar and lounge, and general store. Up the road about 5 miles is Mount Charleston Lodge, which has a great restaurant and bar with stunning views. The weekend gets busy with bikers and brunchers, so call ahead to rent one of the several rustic cabins and stay the night. FYI: There is no TV reception or Internet here.
Lee Canyon is the ski resort located about 30 minutes on the backside of Charleston Peak. Taking Deer Creek Road north, there are several trailheads for hiking and picnicking before the road ends at the resort. Open seven days a week from early December to March, there are three lifts and 30 trails. In the lodge, there is a restaurant and bar as well as a pro shop full of gear for rentals. After a day of exploring the mountains, stop for lunch or dinner at a Vegas classic – Bob Taylor’s Original Ranch House & Supper Club. Since 1955, they have been serving mesquite-grilled steaks on the outskirts of town, complete with John Wayne posters on the wood-paneled walls. This is old-school Vegas not to be missed.
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